You sleep on it at night, you dry yourself with it after a shower, and you’re probably even wearing it right now. Despite being so common and so useful (it represents nearly half the fibre used in the textile industry), cotton has a dark side. The story of the way cotton is grown, harvested and produced has some nasty truths that impact our planet and its people. Cotton is sometimes referred to as White Gold because of how lucrative it is in developing nations, like Uzbekistan. But what are the actual facts behind these claims and how can we make sure the cotton we wear and use has cared for the earth, waterways and the people who helped make our garments?

Tamara Davydova always wanted to start her own fashion brand—it was just a matter of when. After more than two decades in the industry, holding design stints with Michael Kors, Yigal Azrouel and Monique Lhuillier, she said the limiting factor was not the lack of expertise, “but the why.”